A growing concern has emerged on social media regarding the impending closure of the well-loved Sodería del Medio in Matanzas, often referred to as the "Coppelia of Calle del Medio." This spot is one of the few remaining places in Cuba where you can still purchase a scoop of ice cream for just 50 Cuban pesos.
Adrián Socorro Suárez, using his Facebook profile, raised the alarm about local authorities' plan to hand over the premises to a private individual. The intention is to set up stalls for "merolicos," a Cuban term for vendors selling various goods from stationary positions.
"This cherished venue is set to vanish due to the unfortunate decision to allow someone to occupy the space with tables for merolicos," Suárez commented, emphasizing his personal connection to those who ensure the parlor's operation.
The irony of the situation cannot be overlooked, as a merolico stall already exists directly in front of the ice cream parlor. Additionally, there is a whole plaza filled with similar vendors just around the corner, and more stalls are located in the nearby sacristy alley.
The neighboring pizzeria has also previously been repurposed for the same kind of setup.
A Unique Haven Amidst Urban Decline
Suárez poetically described the parlor as a "beautiful butterfly amidst a dreadful dump," highlighting its exceptional status amid the widespread decay.
The complaint also hints at potential underlying issues with the decision. "Perhaps it stems from shady business dealings and corruption, as is so often the case. I cannot confirm what I don't know for sure. But it's undoubtedly absurd," he expressed.
Comments from someone familiar with the parlor's operations reveal the immense struggle its management faces in maintaining service. "Every dish comes at a huge sacrifice from the administration because there's often no electricity, and water supply is inconsistent. Yet, they find ways to secure water for service, whether by carrying it or using an ecoflow to pump it into the tank," they noted.
Another resident of Matanzas voiced her frustration more directly: "I can't comprehend why a place that sells food would be turned into something that already saturates the entire city—tables for merolicos. What a crime they're committing in this province."
An Affordable Breakfast Option
The parlor also serves as a morning refuge for elderly citizens, who line up as early as 8:30 a.m. to enjoy an affordable breakfast alternative. "Many people see this ice cream shop as a breakfast option, even if it's just a cold treat at 9 a.m., they can afford it with dignity," Suárez added.
A commenter concluded, "I believe this decision is unfair and likely stems from a poorly thought-out whim."
The reported closure comes amid a rapid transformation of Cuba's state-run commerce. In June, the National Assembly approved 176 economic reforms, which included legalizing itinerant vending with a seller's license and simplified tax regime, thereby legitimizing an activity previously penalized with hefty fines.
Simultaneously, the Cuban government has been handing over state-run locations it can no longer manage to private entities, from cafes and butcher shops in Havana to dining spaces in other provinces.
The 50-peso scoop price at Sodería del Medio stands in stark contrast to the 125 pesos charged at Coppelia in Sancti Spíritus following its reopening under private management in June. This makes the Matanzas ice cream parlor a rare and almost singular phenomenon in the current Cuban culinary landscape.
Understanding the Changes in Cuban Ice Cream Parlors
Why is the Sodería del Medio in Matanzas closing?
The parlor is reportedly closing because authorities plan to hand over the space to a private individual to set up tables for merolicos, vendors who sell various goods.
What is the significance of the 50-peso ice cream at Sodería del Medio?
The 50-peso ice cream at Sodería del Medio is significant because it remains one of the few affordable options in Cuba, contrasting sharply with the higher prices at other locations like Coppelia in Sancti Spíritus.
How has the Cuban government been changing its approach to commerce?
Recently, the Cuban government approved economic reforms that legalize street vending and simplify the tax regime, while also transferring state-run business spaces to private actors.