Ulises Toirac Reflects on the Modern-Day Odyssey from Playa to Vedado

Comedian Ulises Toirac took to Facebook this Thursday to share a humorous yet exhausting tale he titled "Semblance without Dismay." In it, he describes the grueling journey of crossing Havana by foot and on makeshift transport, all while carrying around forty pounds in the sweltering heat of July.

His post opens with a declaration that resonates with many in Havana: "Walking through Havana at midday in July is an extreme sport. But there's no alternative."

Toirac finds himself trekking from the Playa municipality to Vedado over several days, transporting items to and from Fajardo Hospital. The route takes him up 42nd Street to 41st Street, across the "ancient and pothole-ridden" bridge over the Almendares River, and finally to D Street. To manage this endeavor, he mixes walking with rides on "riquimbilis"—a term he humorously refers to as "resistive creativity (which is different from creative resistance)."

The Uphill Struggle

The most intense part of his story is the climb between 23rd Street and the hospital. "This hill is taking my breath away, and my sneakers look like two burnt match heads," Toirac writes, blending complaints with humor as he often does.

Amidst this adventure, a touching moment emerges. A riquimbili driver drops him off at the park corner of 23rd between C and D streets. When Toirac asks for the fare, the driver replies, "You've made me laugh so many times in my life, there's no way I'm charging you now."

A Gift of Laughter

Toirac insists on compensating him—"it's his job," he points out, especially challenging with those bumpy roads and high fuel costs. But the driver insists with a grin, "This is a gift. It's both a pleasure and an honor," before driving away.

These homemade vehicles, known as riquimbilis, have become a popular informal mode of transport in the capital. Toirac acknowledges their contribution to easing the city's transportation woes but notes that even with their lower fares, many still find them unaffordable. "People have to tighten their sandals (which aren't cheap either) and walk long distances with a mix of tenderness and frustration as they touch their wallets," he remarks.

The Transportation Crisis

The silent backdrop of his story is the collapse of Havana's public transport system. Since February 6, 2026, a fuel shortage has sidelined over 60% of urban buses, turning riquimbilis from a curiosity into a necessity.

Finally reaching the top of the hill, Toirac sets down his bag under a tree to catch his breath, and with the same spirit he's maintained throughout, he encourages himself: "Come on, you can do it!"