On a recent visit to Gibara, the historic "Villa Blanca de los Cangrejos" located in Holguín province, the town appeared eerily quiet. Streets were barren, businesses were shut, and the beaches were empty despite it being the peak of summer.
A YouTube video by Leo’s Travel captures what is described as an "almost perpetual silence" in a city that seems under a sort of curfew. Although there was electricity during the visit, the town was lifeless: no activity in the central park, along the waterfront, or in the usually bustling seaside eateries, most of which were closed.
The content creator expressed dismay, noting, "It's disappointing to see the most beautiful spots, those with sea views, are closed. Globally, a view of the sea is a prime attraction, far more sought after than cityscapes."
Energy Crisis and Economic Struggles
The immediate cause is the energy crisis. In an open letter dated July 7, a local resident highlighted power outages lasting over 56 consecutive hours. "Enduring more than 20 hours without electricity has become the norm," she wrote, while also lamenting 20 days without running water, unpaid wages from May as of July 6, a banking collapse, and skyrocketing food costs. A water tank was reported to cost 3,000 pesos on the black market.
Comments from Cubans on the video confirm that this decline is recent and rapid. "Gibara was never a ghost town. The main street was always bustling. The ghostly atmosphere started about two years ago when those who could afford it left for other countries. Never before was there such despair, agony, or scarcity," one viewer commented.
Another visitor from the previous year noted, "The streets looked lonely and sad. Electricity is rare, water even scarcer. My family there tells me it's true."
A Flicker of Irony and Hope
Ironic comments point out that during the upcoming International Festival of Low-Budget Cinema, electricity will be restored to project a better image to the world. Initially scheduled for April, the festival's 20th edition was postponed to July 14-18 due to the energy crisis. With self-supplied batteries and open-air screenings, the event highlights a stark contrast, as residents remark on the facade being put up.
"Imagine what this town could achieve with a little more economic development and the innovative ideas of Cubans eager to improve our lives," pondered the video's narrator as he wrapped up his tour.
A City Once Flourishing
Gibara's deterioration reflects a broader pattern of neglect across the province. The Holguín-Gibara railway station, dating back to 1893, now lies in ruins with damp walls and shattered windows. Cuba's only underground train passage, located in Gibara, stands abandoned, and hurricane debris remains unaddressed throughout the city.
This decline starkly contrasts with Gibara’s illustrious past as one of the most dynamic ports in Cuba's eastern region during the 19th century. Renowned for its neoclassical architecture and cosmopolitan flair, it once boasted the second most extensive wall system in Cuba, after Havana, earning it the nickname "Little Spain." Its Historic Urban Center is a designated National Monument.
Understanding Gibara's Decline
What factors contribute to Gibara's current state?
The primary factors include a severe energy crisis, with frequent and prolonged power outages, a lack of running water, unpaid wages, and the overall economic stagnation affecting local businesses and tourism.
How has the local community responded to these challenges?
Residents have voiced their concerns through open letters and social media, highlighting the dire living conditions. Some have left the town in search of better opportunities abroad.
What significance does the Festival of Low-Budget Cinema hold for Gibara?
The festival is a significant cultural event that attracts international attention. Despite the ongoing crises, it symbolizes hope and resilience, as organizers adapt to challenges by employing creative solutions like outdoor screenings.