On this day, April 26, back in 1942, Ángel Martínez took ownership of a small store named "La Complaciente" located at Empedrado No. 207 in Old Havana. This humble beginning marked the inception of what would become one of the world's most renowned restaurants: La Bodeguita del Medio.
Fast forward to 2026, and the establishment celebrates 84 years since its initial opening. However, historians often debate the precise date of its founding. Some suggest the official establishment occurred on April 26, 1950, when the venue was formally inaugurated under its permanent name, still managed by Martínez.
The Unique Character of "La Bodeguita del Medio"
The restaurant's iconic name originated from its distinctive architectural feature: unlike typical Cuban bodegas positioned on corners, this one was located mid-block, earning the popular nickname "La Bodeguita del Medio."
The transformation into a celebrated dining spot unfolded between 1948 and 1950. In 1948, Félix Ayón, a director at a nearby publishing house, began hosting meals with clients and friends, which were enthusiastically received. The following year, Silvia Torres, affectionately known as "la china," joined as a cook. Her traditional Cuban dishes—such as white rice, black beans, yuca with mojo, roast pork, pork cracklings, and ripe plantains—quickly turned the establishment into a resounding success.
Cultural Hub and Celebrity Patronage
Its proximity to print shops and cultural centers in Old Havana drew intellectuals and artists from across Latin America. Notable historical guests included Gabriela Mistral, Pablo Neruda, Agustín Lara, Nicolás Guillén, and Ernest Hemingway, one of the authors most closely associated with Havana's culinary scene.
An often-quoted phrase attributed to Hemingway, "My mojito in La Bodeguita, my daiquirí in El Floridita," is displayed in the restaurant as if penned by him. Despite this, historians consider it apocryphal, as Hemingway was not a frequent visitor to La Bodeguita, though he was a regular at El Floridita.
Post-Revolution Changes and Legacy
Following the 1959 Revolution, the venue was nationalized, and its graffiti-covered walls—bearing the signatures of celebrities—were painted over, erasing the original inscriptions. Thanks to the intervention of Salvador Allende, the site was reopened and partially restored with recovered photographs and donations.
Currently, La Bodeguita del Medio is operated by the state-owned Palmares company, attracting primarily tourists. While locals could occasionally visit until the 1980s, the economic hardships following the Special Period in the 1990s have made it nearly inaccessible for most Cubans. A mojito now costs about $5, a price beyond the reach of the average Cuban amid the island's severe economic crisis.
Global Expansion of the La Bodeguita Brand
The brand has expanded with branches in Santiago de Cuba, Varadero since 2014, Holguín, Pinar del Río, and Trinidad, alongside establishments in over a dozen countries, including Argentina, Mexico, Germany, England, and the Czech Republic.
Poet Nicolás Guillén immortalized the venue in a sonnet that begins: "La Bodeguita is now the bodegona, / triumphantly waving its banner to the air, / whether bodegona or bodeguita / Havana rightfully boasts of it," and concludes with the verse: "I toast that history repeats itself, / and that even as it becomes the bodegona, / it never ceases to be La Bodeguita."
FAQs About La Bodeguita del Medio
When was La Bodeguita del Medio officially established?
La Bodeguita del Medio is often considered to have been officially established on April 26, 1950, when it adopted its permanent name and was formally inaugurated.
What dishes contributed to the success of La Bodeguita del Medio?
Traditional Cuban dishes such as white rice, black beans, yuca with mojo, roast pork, pork cracklings, and ripe plantains, prepared by cook Silvia Torres, played a significant role in the restaurant's success.
Who are some of the famous visitors to La Bodeguita del Medio?
Notable visitors have included Gabriela Mistral, Pablo Neruda, Agustín Lara, Nicolás Guillén, and Ernest Hemingway.