The Norwegian anthropologist Ståle Wig resided in Havana from 2015 to 2018, juggling nighttime taxi driving with daytime work at a clothing and shoe market to document the daily lives of Cubans living under the communist regime.
His journey is captured in the book "Havana Taxi: Cuba and the Years of Illusion," published by Editorial Hypermedia in February 2026.
Wig first arrived in Havana in December 2014, right as Barack Obama and Raúl Castro announced the reestablishment of diplomatic relations between the United States and Cuba. This apparent opening sparked a wave of hope among Cubans, which the anthropologist aimed to document from within.
Inspired by the Iranian documentary "Taxi Tehran," he decided to buy a car and roam the streets of Havana as a driver to spark spontaneous conversations. "Knowing that taxi drivers love to chat, it seemed like an intriguing endeavor," he explained.
He purchased the vehicle with funds from the organization Palabra Libre, but securing a taxi license was a lengthy, "very difficult" process involving "a lot of bribery."
He partnered with the car's owner, whom he refers to as Catalina in the book: a Communist Party member known as "the queen of the underworld," who used the car to transport hair from rural areas to Havana for sale on the black market. Today, Wig considers her his "second mother."
Unveiling Cuba's Contradictions
The book features three real-life characters that embody the contradictions of Cuban society.
Catalina professes love for Fidel Castro but has long ceased participating in official events, unable to see herself reflected in the current authorities. This duality—feigning loyalty for survival—has become essential on the island.
Linette, a woman from Santiago who fled an abusive relationship in Russia, reinvented herself in Havana with an Airbnb business.
Norges Rodríguez, a young journalist who founded a blog on human rights and press freedom, faced threats of 20 years in prison and ended up in exile after being accused of conspiracy following the protests on July 11, 2021.
Facing Regime's Scrutiny
Wig himself was not immune to the regime's watchful eye: his phones were tapped, he received unexpected police visits, and he was interrogated about his activities.
Shortages were a constant in daily life, from food to toilet paper or butter, even for him, with his Norwegian university salary and European passport.
When he returned in 2021 to read the manuscript to Catalina—accompanied by Bob Marley's music "to prevent neighbors from eavesdropping"—he found a "dark" country, with power outages lasting nearly twenty hours in eastern provinces and a hope extinguished following the 11J crackdown.
After that social upheaval, more than 1,500 people were arrested, and the exodus dramatically accelerated, with Cuba losing nearly 18% of its population in just two years.
"The future shifted, not to another time, but to another place," Wig reflects on this mass departure.
During a recent visit to Buenos Aires to present his book, the anthropologist starkly described the island's current situation: "There is a wild desperation...There is complete uncertainty about what will happen."
"To understand Cuba, you have to experience it," asserts Wig, who spent years immersed in its reality. He sums up his experience with one poignant phrase: "I left with a broken heart."
Insights into the Struggles of Cuban Society
What inspired Ståle Wig to work as a taxi driver in Havana?
Ståle Wig was inspired by the Iranian documentary "Taxi Tehran" and decided to drive a taxi in Havana to provoke spontaneous conversations and document the lives of Cubans.
Who are the key figures depicted in Wig's book?
The book portrays three real-life characters: Catalina, a Communist Party member; Linette, a woman who reinvented herself in Havana; and Norges Rodríguez, a journalist who faced exile.
What challenges did Wig face during his time in Cuba?
Wig faced regime scrutiny, including phone taps and police interrogations. He also experienced daily shortages despite his Norwegian salary and European passport.